In this video, we will show you how to rebuild our second generation LAVL2 series of linear slides from Sure Motion.
In this video we will demonstrate how to rebuild one of AutomationDirect's LAVL2 series of linear actuators. This is the second generation of compact slides. If you have a first generation, please refer to the rebuild videos for that series. You can find the written instructions on AutomationDirect's website by following the link on the product page. I would encourage you to either have the instructions available online or, simply print them out and have them handy while rebuilding the slide. I am rebuilding an LAVL2- 60T06LP2 slide that has 6 inches of travel and a 0.2-inch pitch which will require the repair kit with a 0.2-inch lead screw pitch. There is a separate kit for lead screws with a 0.5-inch lead screw pitch. The instructions are the same for both kits. Let's begin. I am using the rebuild kit part number LAVLACC-006. This kit comes with three bearings, one retaining ring, four slide liners, one lead screw nut and mount sub-assembly and one lubrication pen applicator. You will need the following tools: 1.5 mm, 2.5mm and 3/32-inch allen wrenches. Internal retaining ring pliers, cleaning towels and safety glasses. I also have a 12mm combination wrench, acetone for cleaning and protective gloves. First, using a 2.5 mm allen wrench, loosen the shaft coupler on the linear slide side, not the motor side. Remove the four motor screws and remove the motor and coupler. The motor had already been removed from our slide, so we are only removing the coupler. Loosen the lock nut set screw with a 1.5 mm allen wrench. Don't take the set screw out, just loosen it. Here is the tricky part. There is a very small brass crush washer under the set screw on each lock nut. You can see how tiny it is. Make sure you have the slide on a clean surface, so you don't lose the brass washer. I put white paper under the slide so I could see the brass washer. This brass washer keeps the set screw from damaging the slide screw. You can usually remove the lock nut by hand, but if it is tight, use a 12 mm wrench to loosen it. You can hold the carriage to assist in loosening the nut, unless the carriage lead screw nut is broken. Remove the square lock nut from the motor end of the lead screw. On the opposite end of the motor, use a 3/32-inch allen wrench to remove the two idler mount screws. Remove the mount from the slide. This will allow the lead screw to be pushed out of the motor mount. Thread the lead screw out of the carriage and lead screw nut. We can remove the three bearings from the slide, two on the motor side and one on the idler end. The bearing on the idler side will require retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring or c-clip. These bearings will be replaced with new bearings from the rebuild kit. Remove the four slide liners from the carriage. These will be replaced with new liners from the kit. Using a 3/32-inch allen wrench, remove the four screws holding the lead screw nut and assembly to the carriage. The lead screw nut assembly will be replaced with a new one from the kit, we will need to reuse the four screws. Clean all surfaces of the lead screw, slide and carriage. Spin the new lead screw nut and assembly onto the lead screw. The lead screw nut flange should be facing the motor end of the lead screw. Apply lubricant to the full length of the lead screw. There is a spring in the bottle you can use to help mix up the lubricant in case there was any settling. Twist the lead screw nut the full length of the lead screw to check for tightness. Clean any debris and then remove the lead screw nut. Install the two new flange bearings on the motor mount. Using retaining ring pliers, install the new bearing in the idler end mount. Replace all four slide liners in the same position as the old liners were removed. There is a raised ring on the outside diameter of each liner and should fit in the mating groove on the carriage. Loosely assemble the lead screw nut assembly onto the carriage with the original mounting screws. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the base rails. Slide the carriage back onto the base rails. The lead screw nut should be facing the motor side of the slide. Slide the carriage back and forth on the slide rails. If there is too much resistance, loosen the pre-load screws slightly with a 3/32-inch allen wrench. Tighten the pre-load screws until you feel a slight resistance, then tighten them about one quarter turn more. The carriage should be able to be pushed with light effort, so loosen the screws lightly if the carriage requires noticeable effort to move. Slide the carriage back and forth again several times. Periodically stop and slightly twist the carriage in all directions. This should help seat the new liners. If play in the carriage is detected again, tighten the pre-load screws slightly and retest. Position the carriage close to the drive end and feed the lead screw into the drive end first. Install the reassembled idler end mount on to the lead screw. The mounting bolts should be loosely installed. Make sure to re-install the brass crush washer in the square lock nut. I use a little dab of grease to hold the washer to the end of the set screw and insert the set screw facing up so the brass washer does not fall out. Then install the square lock nut. Thread the lock nut back onto the drive end of the lead screw and hand tighten until the bearings have limited play. Tighten the set screw with a 1.5 mm allen wrench. Move the carriage to the center of the rails and loosely fasten the new lead screw nut to the carriage with the original lead screw nut mounting screws. Move the carriage to the motor end and tighten the two upper lead nut screws with a 3/32-inch allen wrench. Move the carriage back a little and tighten the lower lead nut screws. Move the carriage to the idler end, then tighten the idler end mount screws with a 3/32-inch allen wrench. Move the carriage back and forth from end to end to check for consistent movement. Apply lubricant to the drive screw and slide the carriage to distribute the lubricant along the entire length. If the carriage is positioned and tightened correctly, then it is time to reinstall the coupling and motor. If you have any questions about these linear slides, please contact AutomationDirect's free award- winning technical support during regular business hours. They will be happy to help. Thank you for watching.